Selecting The Right Metal
Introducing Bricabracomania's metals of choice: an explicit guide of choosing the right material for your adornments... from a goldsmith's perspective
Precious Metals: Silver
Silver is a versatile and common metal of choice for artisan jewellery. Its relatively affordable price and unique physical properties offer goldsmiths a great media for creative metalwork. This precious metal is ideal for heavy statement pieces, sculptural jewellery and structured, high contrast patinated surfaces.
The main advantage is a balance between being easy to oxidise (blacken the surface) on purpose and being relatively (to base metals like pewter, bronze and brass) resistant to wear oxidation (tarnish and losing the shine). However, silver will never match properties and tarnish resistance of such metals as white gold, palladium, platinum or stainless steel, therefore, using unplated silver for mirror polish, high-end looking pieces that mimic white gold or platinum is not a good solution. In some cases, silver pieces are rhodium plated in attempt to resolve the tarnish issue, but as every plating tends to fade with time, such piece of jewellery will lose its charm rather quickly.
Pure or fine silver is, in most cases, alloyed with copper to form either Sterling Silver (Ag 925) or Silver Britannica (Ag 950) to increase the hardness and scratch resistance of jewellery. It is important to know that Sterling Silver, which is the default choice of most jewellers worldwide is not the ideal material for heavy duty or fragile pieces. Sterling is more durable than Silver Britannica and fine silver, but is still a relatively soft alloy. Such metals as stainless steel and gold are better candidates for filigree creations, engagement and wedding rings. Avoid delicate dainty rings and flimsy prong stone settings executed in silver, as they tend to deform, loosen and may require constant alterations.
It is common to experience allergic reactions to silver alloy jewellery. Sometimes it is due to the variety of alloyed metals, sometimes it is the silver itself that disagrees with the organism. Silver is quite a reactive material that might leave black traces on the skin in rare cases – this might happen predominantly to chains and earrings if those are worn for too long and are not properly cleaned for longer periods of time. Those with silver allergies do not have to restrict themselves to golden jewellery only – medical grade stainless steel could, in some cases, be a better and more affordable alternative for such individuals.
In our opinion, silver is a great metal if it is used correctly. The goldsmiths who chose to celebrate silver and its unique properties, respect the metal and highlight the nature instead of concealing it will be rewarded with brilliant results and long lasting pieces that will bring joy to clients for decades. When buying jewellery, remember - silver should not be used as a substitute for more expensive metals, but chosen for its own charm.
Precious Metals: Gold
This iconic and treasured metal was goldsmiths’ favourite since the antiquity. Gold was praised for its signature yellow tone and extreme resistance to corrosion and oxidation. The oldest piece of golden jewellery dates back to 4400 BC, which showcases the incredible durability of this metal. Until the invention of white gold in 19th century, golden alloys used in jewellery and textile adornments were bright yellow or slightly reddish. Nowadays, golden alloys offer a wider exotic colour palette, from green to purple. Most common alloys, however, are yellow, white, rose and red.
Every jewellery grade gold alloy is hallmarked 22k 18k, 14k and less precious 10k or 9k. Different concentrations of fine gold and additional metals such as silver, copper, palladium, nickel and zinc and are defined by internationally accepted standards. Lower concentration of gold makes the alloy harder and more resilient to scratches and deformations, however causes the colour to be less saturated. It is a matter of taste and preference which colour and grade of gold to chose, each alloy has its own perks.
Gold is ideal for delicate, mirror polished pieces, heirloom jewels, engagement and wedding rings, bright accents for silver jewellery. It will not tarnish, fade or scratch easily, but still required regular cleaning and re-polish for the heavy duty pieces. Do not hesitate to prefer white gold over silver for an every day ring or earrings, planned to be worn often and for long periods of time – it is a good investment in a beloved piece.
Stainless Steel
This relatively new material is rarely used in artisan jewellery. It is mostly used in mass produced fashion jewellery, body piercing industry and occasionally in high end contemporary pieces. This metal is extremely durable, damage and corrosion resistant and will keep its primary shine for a very long time.
Stainless steel is an alloy of iron, carbon, nickel and chrome. It is not a precious metal and the price is closer to the price of bronze than one of silver, but if used skilfully – pieces made out of steel will take a breath away. Working with steel is time consuming and requires tungsten carbide or diamond burs due to its hardness. Naturally occurring heat patina may be created on the surface to add a splash of colour and create an out of this world appearance. However, not every design can be executed in steel. We use Stainless steel exclusively for lost wax casting technique and combine the pieces with gold and gemstone accents.
Base Metals: Bronze
Bronze is an oldest alloy known to mankind. Mixing copper and tin created a dull yellow, slightly reddish metal that would sometimes acquire a turquoise patina. Beloved media of sculptors, it is not very popular in jewellery industry nowadays, as there are better and less reactive alloys for this particular cause. Bronze rings, earrings and chains may stain the skin and quickly lose mirror polish.
Bronze is a bad solution for jewellery that will come in contact with skin. But it is a spectacular metal that shouldn’t be dismissed from the workshop because of that. We love bronze and find the way this metal interacts with environment somewhat magical. In our shop clients will always find pins, statement pendants, buttons and other accessories executed in bronze that highlight bronze unique nature without compromising on functionality and comfort.
